Projects & Patterns
How to Read a Knitting or Crochet Pattern for Beginners
A friendly, step-by-step guide to understanding knitting and crochet patterns — from abbreviations and gauge to brackets, asterisks, and US vs UK terms.
You pick up a pattern, excited to start, and then you see something like: k2, p1, rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. Or: sc in next 5 ch, 2 sc in next ch, rep from * around. It looks like code, and for a moment you wonder if you need a decoder ring.
You don't. Patterns follow a consistent logic, and once you see that logic, even complicated-looking instructions become readable pretty quickly. This guide walks through every part of a pattern so you can get from "what does this mean?" to actually making the thing.
What You'll Find at the Top of a Pattern
Before the instructions even start, a pattern tells you almost everything you need to plan your project. Don't skip this section, it saves a lot of frustration later.
Skill Level
Most patterns label themselves as beginner, easy, intermediate, or advanced. "Easy" is not always the same as "beginner," so read the label and skim the stitch list before committing to a project.
Materials
This section lists your yarn (with weight and recommended yardage), hook or needle size, and any notions, things like stitch markers, a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, or buttons. Yarn weight matters a lot. A pattern written for worsted weight will behave completely differently if you use lace weight instead.
Gauge
Gauge tells you how many stitches and rows fit into a specific measurement, usually 4 inches (10 cm). A typical crochet gauge might read: 16 sc and 18 rows = 4 in. A knitting gauge might read: 22 sts and 28 rows = 4 in. in stockinette.
Always swatch. Seriously. If your gauge doesn't match the pattern, your finished piece will be the wrong size. A gauge that's off by even half a stitch per inch can mean a sweater that doesn't fit or a blanket that's too small. Work a swatch about 6 inches square, wash and dry it the same way you'll wash the finished piece, then measure the center (not the edges, which tend to pull in).
Finished Measurements
This tells you what the finished piece should look like, dimensions for a blanket, length and width for a scarf, or chest sizes for a garment. If you're making something sized, match the measurement to what you're making, not necessarily the labeled size.
Abbreviations
Patterns define their abbreviations in this section. Always read it, even if you think you know what the abbreviations mean. Some patterns define custom stitches here too, with a little how-to description.
Common Abbreviations: Knitting and Crochet
This table covers the most frequently used abbreviations you'll encounter as a beginner. Keep it bookmarked.
Knitting Abbreviations
| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| k | knit |
| p | purl |
| st / sts | stitch / stitches |
| rep | repeat |
| RS | right side (the public-facing side) |
| WS | wrong side |
| k2tog | knit two stitches together (a decrease) |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit (another decrease) |
| yo | yarn over (creates a new stitch/hole) |
| sl | slip (move a stitch without working it) |
| pm | place marker |
| sm | slip marker |
| CO | cast on |
| BO | bind off |
| inc | increase |
| dec | decrease |
Crochet Abbreviations
| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| ch | chain |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| sc | single crochet |
| hdc | half double crochet |
| dc | double crochet |
| tr | treble (triple) crochet |
| st / sts | stitch / stitches |
| sp | space (usually a chain space) |
| rep | repeat |
| beg | beginning |
| sk | skip |
| yo | yarn over |
| BLO | back loop only |
| FLO | front loop only |
| rnd | round |
| inc | increase (work 2 stitches into one) |
| dec | decrease |
| MR | magic ring |
This is not every abbreviation that exists, but it covers the vast majority of what beginner and easy patterns use.
Understanding Brackets, Parentheses, and Asterisks
This is where patterns can look intimidating, but the system is actually simple once you know what each symbol does.
Asterisks (*), The Repeat Marker
An asterisk marks the beginning of a section you'll repeat. When you see rep from * to end or rep from * to last 2 sts, go back to where the asterisk appears and work those stitches again.
Here's a real example:
Row 1: k1, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, k1.
Let's say you cast on 17 stitches. You'd work it like this:
- Knit 1 (that's the k1 before the asterisk)
- Now enter the repeat: knit 2, purl 2
- Go back to the asterisk and repeat: knit 2, purl 2
- Keep repeating until you have 1 stitch left
- Knit that last stitch (the k1 at the end)
The part between the asterisk and the semicolon (k2, p2) is your repeating unit. You work it as many times as fits, then finish with whatever comes after "to last X sts."
Brackets [ ] and Parentheses ( )
These usually group a set of stitches worked into the same place, or they clarify a number for a specific size.
Worked into one stitch: (sc, ch 2, sc) in next st means you work all three of those things into the same single stitch. This is common in corner increases for granny squares and similar motifs.
Multiple sizes: If a pattern is written for multiple sizes, extra numbers appear in parentheses. The format looks like: Cast on 80 (90, 100, 110) sts. The first number is the smallest size. Pick your size before you start and circle every number that applies to you, it reduces errors dramatically.
Double Asterisks (**)
Some patterns use double asterisks to mark a larger nested repeat. Work the inner * repeat first, then the outer ** repeat. The pattern will spell out exactly where each starts and ends.
US vs UK Crochet Terms: A Critical Difference
If you're using a pattern from the UK (or Australia, or New Zealand), the stitch names are different from US terms, and the mismatch will completely change your stitch structure.
Here's the conversion:
| US Term | UK Term |
|---|---|
| single crochet (sc) | double crochet (dc) |
| half double crochet (hdc) | half treble crochet (htr) |
| double crochet (dc) | treble crochet (tr) |
| treble crochet (tr) | double treble (dtr) |
| slip stitch (sl st) | slip stitch (sl st) |
The most common confusion: a UK pattern says "dc" and you follow the US meaning of double crochet, when the UK "dc" actually means single crochet. Your stitch height will be off, your tension will feel wrong, and the finished piece will look different from the photos.
Check the pattern source. Most modern patterns state which terminology they use (US or UK). If they don't, look for context clues, if "dc" appears to be the smallest common stitch and is worked in small, tight fabric, it's likely a UK pattern using UK "dc" (= US sc).
For knitting, terminology is mostly consistent across regions, so this is a crochet-specific thing to watch for.
Working Through an Actual Row or Round
Reading individual abbreviations is one thing. Putting it together into a full row is another. Here's how to approach it without getting lost.
Before You Start
Read through the entire row instruction once before picking up your hook or needles. Look for the repeat markers, check how many stitches you should have at the end, and note any special stitches you haven't worked before. A quick dry-read prevents mid-row confusion.
Tracking Your Place
Use a finger or a sticky note to track which line of the pattern you're on. For stitch counts within a row, a tally counter app or a simple pencil mark works well. Stitch markers (little loops of contrasting yarn work fine) placed at repeat intervals can save you from miscounting long rows.
Checking Your Stitch Count
Most patterns tell you how many stitches you should have after each row or round, often in parentheses at the end: (24 sts) or [30 sc]. Count at the end of every row while you're learning. Finding an error one row later is much easier than finding it ten rows later.
When Something Looks Wrong
If your stitch count is off, don't immediately frog (undo) everything. First recount slowly, stitch by stitch. Then reread the row instruction. Common culprits: accidentally working into the turning chain as a stitch (some patterns count it, others don't), missing a yarn over, or working a repeat one time too many or too few.
Good beginner projects to practice reading patterns on your own: a dishcloth (simple rectangle with an interesting stitch pattern) or a first scarf. For a very approachable crochet start, try a beginner crochet dishcloth, which keeps the pattern short and the row count manageable.
Knitting-Specific Pattern Notes
Right Side vs Wrong Side
Many knitting patterns specify RS (right side) and WS (wrong side) rows. On a flat piece, you typically see the RS when you hold the fabric up the way it's meant to be displayed. Some patterns work the WS rows as simple purls (or knits) without instruction, telling you to "work WS rows in established pattern." That means: look at what you see and work the stitches as they appear.
"In Pattern" and "As Established"
These phrases mean: keep doing what the pattern already set up. If you've been working a 2x2 rib (k2, p2), "continue in pattern" means keep doing k2, p2 as the stitches appear. No need to re-read the row instruction.
Turning Chains in Crochet (a Parallel)
Crochet has an equivalent concept: the turning chain at the start of a row mimics the height of the stitch you're about to work (ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, ch 3 for dc). Whether the turning chain counts as a stitch varies by pattern and designer. The pattern will almost always specify. Getting this right keeps your edge stitches clean and your row width consistent.
For a simple first knitting project to put these ideas in practice, a beginner knit scarf or a beginner crochet scarf both use a small set of basic stitches repeated across consistent rows, a good pattern-reading workout.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does "multiple of X" mean in a pattern?
It means your stitch count needs to be divisible by that number for the repeat to work out evenly. If a pattern says "cast on a multiple of 4," valid counts include 16, 20, 24, 28, and so on. Some patterns add "+X", like "multiple of 4 plus 2", which means cast on 18, 22, 26, etc. (4 × any number, then add 2). This accounts for edge stitches outside the repeat.
How do I know which size to follow in a multi-size pattern?
Measure yourself (or whoever you're making the item for) and compare to the finished measurements listed in the pattern, not to a generic size label. Many patterns suggest 0 to 2 inches of ease (extra room) for a comfortable fit. Mark your size clearly throughout the pattern before you start, highlighter, brackets, or a PDF annotation all work.
Can I substitute a different yarn?
Yes, but match the yarn weight and check gauge. Substituting a different fiber or brand within the same weight class is usually fine. Going up or down a weight class (say, swapping worsted for chunky) changes gauge significantly and usually requires resizing the pattern. The yarn label lists the weight and suggested needle/hook size, use that as your starting reference.
What if I can't get gauge no matter what I try?
Try a different hook or needle size. A tighter gauge (more stitches per inch than the pattern calls for) means going up a size. A looser gauge means going down a size. Your gauge can also shift with different yarns, even same-weight yarns from different brands can behave differently. Give yourself a few swatches to find the right combination.
Are crochet pattern sizes the same as knitting sizes?
The sizing charts are usually similar (S/M/L or numeric measurements), but the finished measurements matter more than the label. Always refer to the finished measurements and choose the size based on those numbers, regardless of what the label says.
Patterns are a language, and like any language, they start to feel natural once you've spent a little time with them. The first few times you read one, take it slowly, abbreviation by abbreviation, row by row. You'll find yourself skimming comfortably before long.